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Next trips to Iceland:


July 18 - August 18, 2013
September 1-15, 2013

Summer adventures

Hiking map of Hornstrandir

I’m gearing up for another summer adventure in Iceland. Last summer I didn’t spend a single night in my tent, although I had a wonderful time in Iceland and did lots of day hiking and mountain biking. But when it was time to go back to work in the fall I realized that I terribly missed those nights spent outdoors. So this summer is packed with lots of outdoor fun and adventure and I’ll be sure to tell you all about it. But since the weather determines the schedule, I’m not going to divulge my plans too soon.

In any case, I have a nice weeklong hike on Hornstrandir planned for late July but I’m being extra careful in my planning. First off, I will be hiking alone, as usual. Secondly, I haven’t carried a large backpack since suffering a slipped disc in 2011 (hiking on Hornstrandir, by the way) and I’m not sure how my back will hold up. Though the numbness in my leg is long gone, the actual spot on my back is still tender. 

My feet a few weeks after surgery

Thirdly, I had foot surgery in April and the healing process is slower than I anticipated. I still have a great deal of pain with everyday walking, but the thick sole on my hiking shoes buffers the worst of it. I’ve been running short distances and have done 20k day hikes and feel pretty good, but there is some uncertainly as to how I will perform in mountainous terrain  with 15+ kg on my back, alone on an uninhabited region of Iceland that is only accessible by boat.

Hornstrandir, in the far north-west of Iceland

So after lengthy planning considering all of the above factors, I have chosen a “cautious” route. After all, to me it’s more about spending time alone in the outdoors, taking pictures, observing nature and clearing the cobwebs in my head, and not about logging kilometers. If my body doesn’t allow me to drag my snail shell everywhere with me, I’ll just camp and explore on day trips. Stay tuned!

Last impressions

View of Skutulsfjörður from atop the avalanche protection wall

Coat hooks?

Searching for the owl

The snow is nearly gone. There is lots and lots of ice and the landscape is bubbling, gurgling with rivers of meltwater. Last weekend I hiked into Tungudalur with a friend. An owl has been spotted in the woods and we wanted to catch a glimpse of it. Once we reached the woods, we stopped at a picnic table for lunch. A thermos of hot tea, cookies, sandwiches, and pancakes – a meal fit for a king. 

Strengthened from our snack, we start climbing straight up one of the mountains, hoping to eventually reach the road. The going was easy at first in the deep snow, but higher up the strong wind had polished the face of the cliffs, removing all snow and leaving nothing but ice. Progress was slow and the wind was getting quite cold, so eventually we had to give up and slide straight back down to the bottom on our butts – covered in snowpants, the butt makes the perfect all-natural sled. Unfortunately we didn’t see the owl, but it was a beautiful day nonetheless.

Spring walks

Hnífsdalur

Ísafjörður

The week has been beautiful, the temperatures are above freezing and the snow is melting more and more by the day. It feels a lot like spring, so unusual for February! The afternoon sun shines through my living room windows, beckoning me outside. 

Aldan from the beach

Every day I go out for a long walk, making the most of the day before it gets dark. It’s so nice to have the mountains so close by, I can be out there in the midst of nature just a few minutes. The days are getting noticeably longer and the walk each evening gets longer accordingly. 

I’ve even been down to the beach a few times too. On one rainy evening, I go to the swimming pool instead and on the way home I enjoy a subtle but pretty display of the northern lights over the ocean. 

Flying, hiking, and trick-or-treat

Flying into the Westfjords

 Back in Ísafjörður for two weeks. The domestic flight went well – it’s always a matter of luck flying in the winter. I’ll never get tired of the view from the plane, though.

Yesterday was Sunday and the weather was fine, so I hiked up to the ski hut with a friend. We hiked over endless snow fields that are beginning to thaw. The sun and patches of blue sky try to peek out every once in a while. 

Perfect sledding hill

Cats guarding Aldan on Maskadagurinn

Today is Maskadagurinn, a beautiful tradition in Ísafjörður. It’s similar to Halloween, the kids dress up in costumes and go door to door – but instead of saying trick-or-treat, they sing. 

I had about 25 kids at my door up until 10pm. The little ones sang traditional songs while the older ones often chose a pop number. The neighbors have decorated the windows with cats and witches and our house looks really scary!

A good start to a new year

The weather is supposed to be beautiful so I don’t want to sleep away the day. I’m up at 9, still pretty tired, and out the door by 10:30. First I take a long walk through town, there’s no wind for the first time in a week. I walk along all the coastal streets that were impossible to enjoy in the wind and blowing snow the last few days. 

After a short break at home for a cup of tea, I’m out again. This time I walk along the road to Hnífsdalur, this road was closed because of avalanches just yesterday. Even a bit of clear sky and sun peek out sporadically. Nice sky colors and white mountains heavy with snow. Can see to Hornstrandir today. I enjoy the calm, the quiet and admire the birds along the coast and snack on a sandwich along the way.

After that, I walk back into town and up the hill into the newer residential section, all around that area, back to the cemetery and then a friend calls asking if I wanted to go for a walk. Hehe, sure! We walk around the other side of the hill and Seljalandsvegur up to the avalanche wall. Take a short rest there with tea, which A. thinks is hilarious and really Icelandic. Once back home it’s plenty dark already, about 5:30 pm and I’m really exhausted. The cat’s up for a visit so I enjoy a nap with her on the couch. All in all, another beautiful, picturesque day with countless photo opportunities. 

I will fly back to Reykjavík now in a couple of days and this will be my last entry until February. Bless bless!