Breakfast at Ráðagerði is fine, the same old buffet stuff with no surprises, although the view in the breakfast room is beautiful overlooking the fjord. I sit at a table with stuff left from the previous guests, and there it sits throughout my entire breakfast, although the table is very small and it’s overflowing with dirty plates and coffee cups. The nice thing is that checkout isn’t until noon, which is the latest I’ve seen so far in my travels. Usually guesthouses are keen to get rid of their guests right after breakfast so they can start cleaning. Since I’m catching the bus later to Látrabjarg at 1pm, I stay in the room as late as possible, even taking a last-minute bath after getting sweaty during my morning walk through town (and notice that the tulips are still in bloom!).
There’s an eerie low fog this morning that makes for interesting photos, but it burns off by noon. I’m the only person on the bus to Látrabjarg, so there’s plenty of room for my bike. I pay close attention to the road, seeing it now from the viewpoint of a mountain-biker. It’s really dusty and dry and the slopes are steep, doesn’t look like too much fun to be honest.
We stop at the bird cliff for about 25 minutes and it’s simply awesome. I’ve been here just once before several years ago. I don’t feel it’s overcrowded one bit. Sure the parking lot is full, but it’s a small parking area and the people spread out over a large area. There is plenty of room to sit entirely alone and watch the birds. There are puffins galore and they are so close and tame. I walk as far along the trail as time allows. I really need to hike the entire trail one day, most people only stay on the very first part. I nearly jog back to the bus with a grin on my face. I’m certain I have some really good puffin pictures.
It costs 2000 kr to camp (€14) but showers are free as well as free tea and coffee day or night. More importantly, campers can hang out in the café inside, just reading or having tea, or sit out on the deck in the sun. So although this is one of the more expensive campsites, I feel it’s worth the price. It’s priceless to be able to warm up a bit inside when you camp.
After getting settled and having coffee and a piece of chocolate cake, I go for a really long walk on the beach. There’s just so much to see! I walk all the way to the old fishing huts of Bót and Kumbarapollur. There are interesting flowers and moss to look at, and a stinky dead seal, lots of sponges, driftwood, a whole paddling of ducks, various bones … I sit and watch the waves for a while and daydream.
When I get back to the campsite, the sun is shining brightly but my legs are really tired, walking in the sand is hard! I take a shower and at 10pm I’m lying in my little tent bed with the vestibule open and the sun shining in my face. Life is good!